Tips for Fitting Pants

When making this pair of pants, I realized that I had extra fullness in the back thigh area just below the full hip and above the ankle. This is a brief overview of the steps I took to get a better custom fit for my model:

Here, it's important to remember that we will be working from the crotch---up.
When starting with the muslin, sew the side seams Wrong Side to Wrong Side so that any changes will be easier to change. This will be a "draping" type of fitting process (where you work from the fabric and THEN go back to the paper pattern).

To reduce the amount of fabric in the back hips, make sure that everything else fits correctly. Pin out  excess in leg, tapering to the full hip until you find the right fit.

• Take off muslin
• Remove stitching from the -in seam- starting at the crotch seam all the way to the last pin that you just inserted to fit the bottom of the leg
• Measure the width of that pinned dart at the crotch line, then double that measurement with a seam gauge
• Transfer this amount to the inseam and mark w/ a pin
• Slide the back in-seam forward the amount of the total dart width that you just marked, letting the extra fabric Exit through the seam (this modification shortens the back crotch seam and, in the process, eliminates the fabric that you don't want or need). This moves that dart amount to the seam instead of sewing a dart in the middle of the leg. This is good for pants that you're making for the 1st time OR for pants that you already own since all we're doing is taking away from the side seam!

Pizza for Breakfast

 Recipe Time:

Last week, my gal pal told me all about this breakfast pizza that she made from an online recipe. It sounded pretty awesome- "unconventionally wonderful, with the allure of a classic dish made appropriate for the morning", a fellow blogger put it. I hadn’t stopped thinking about it and realized how easy it would be to serve for a large group or at a model brunch (if I ever had the time). I found this recipe and made it even simpler with store-bought dough and pre-grated cheeses. I love a good twist on a classic and this one pretty much tops my list.

Walk to the Beat

So the music selection for my runway show came down to about 5 options:

• Florence + the Machine: Cosmic Love
• Florence + The Machine: Dog Days Are Over
• Natasha Bedingfield: Neon Lights
• Fergie: Labels or Love
• Oh Land: White Nights

 

And the Winner is ………

At least for now!  Natasha's song Neon Lights is very upbeat, and keeps a fun, celebratory tune. Also, I feel like this song will be the safest on the small speakers in the venue that I'll be showing at. Sometimes, the songs sound very quiet, and this would be terrible with the Florence + The Machine Songs :( Same goes with the Fergie song. I love that Sex and the City-themed song, but it will sound TERRIBLE if the "powers that be" keep it turned down too low (as has been the case in the future). Overall, all of these tracks go well with my line that is soft and feminine with a twist. The style is an edgy take on soft classic pieces. This makes me look for a feminine voice with soft instruments ++++++ a nice strong beat to represent the leather looks that I'll be incorporating as well.

Don't get too excited, though! This all may change, as most of our work must be approved, but as of today, this is the runway track that I'll be using!

35-55... Why Them?!

So, the question often comes up in class and in my own head- Why must we design for the 35-55 year old consumer??? It limits design options, it changes the necklines, it affects the color, and don't even get me started on what it does to the HEM !

 When we question the "powers that be" (aka our instructors) as to WHY we must work for this target market, here's a little bit on what they think:

 

Women Over 40 Lead Apparel Sales

65% of all online sales go to women over age 35, and the fastest growing sales are to women age 55-64 (a boomer population that's been known for its willingness to indulge).  Sales to consumers age 55-64 rose by about 11%. This market is aware of both positive and negative aspects of her body. The 35-55 year old woman wants to be conscious of her age but not "dress Old". These gals know what they want! Natural fibers, cardigans, and other softly tailored pieces are key- not to mention washable and easy care for when they're running around with the family. 

• Updated classics 
• Unexpected fabrics
• New takes on old shapes 
• Look at vintage apparel for inspiration
• Use accessories to upgrade and update the look

 Forgiving fabrics are the best for this market (like Chiffons with great drape and strategic cuts). Some considerations to evaluate in designing for this market: Avoid sleeveless looks, mini-ANYTHING, baggy looks, trendy/fussy details that require regular upkeep.

 

Keep the neck/chest covered in a stylish and modest way. These ladies aren't trying too hard! Frilly evening attire is not so desirable at this stage. Tailored looks are much better. Avoid shawls and cape looks along with anything with the words "tight","low", or "plunging" before it.

These are the factors that I'll be trying to incorporate in my collection. It's going to be a challenge finding the balance!

Focus on:

• Shoulders
• Legs
• Soft colors
• Mixed Textures

Apparently, boomers know who they are and want to dress that way! They don't want to transform themselves but be who they are. So, although I can't guarantee  that this will be the target market that I choose for my future designs, I can see why these gals are so appealing after all.

If I had the time...

 If I had the time to do my nails... this is the technique that I would try for the day.

 

I'm a sucker for doing creative nail designs! I personally think that a thin brush works better, and  it will stay neater for longer, and actually dry in, ohh.. an hour?